The Dumaguete Food Trip

Date of Travel: July 2010

We used Dumaguete as a jump off point for our Apo Island adventure. We were planning to just arrive in the evening so we wouldn't have to rush to our morning flight back to Manila. But after a little research, we decided to spend more time in this charming university city to satisfy our curious tummies.

Sidlakang Negros Village for the Bodbod sa Tanjay.

Sidlakang Negros Village is a cultural park with huts that represent the towns and provinces of Negros Oriental. Some towns sell local crafts, while others, like Tanjay, sell delicacies. 

Bodbod (pronounced as "budbod") sa Tanjay is suman with a stripe of native chocolate. You eat it by dipping it in more native chocolate. The bodbod and the chocolate are so yummy that all the bodbod usually get sold before 11AM.  

Sans Rival Cakes and Pastries

This is one of the main reasons why we wanted to spend time in Dumaguete City. True its name, this restaurant serves  the best Sans Rival and Silvanas that I have ever tasted. I loved them so much that I handcarried 20 boxes of Silvanas and 10 boxes of Sans Rival to Manila. Their Sans Rival and Silvanas had the right blend of textures with its smooth cream and crunchy (or powdery as in the case of their Silvanas)  nuts. The butter-cream that they used was light but it felt so silky on the tongue. And with its subtle sweet taste, I couldn't help but eat some more slices. Dumaguete City is worth the visit even if you just get to eat at this place. 

Panda's Fried Ice Cream

We learned of this by reading Cebu Pacific's inflight magazine. It was okay. The concept was interesting but the taste was just so-so. We tried 3 flavors and we so missed the "cream" in ice cream.

Jo's Chicken Inato

Jo's Chicken Inato traces its roots in Dumaguete City. So, we headed at one of their branches for lunch. Their  barbecue chicken was perfectly cooked with crunchy skin and tender meat. The flavor was well-distributed on the huge chicken slices served on barbecue sticks. The affordable price made our meal even more enjoyable.

Ana Maria Bakeshop

They served yummy cakes! I loved the brazo de mercedez. It was fluffy and the filling was creamy and not too sweet. Really perfect at P40/slice. The chocolate cakes were also moist. Hubby also loved their bottled boquerones.

Hayahay

For dinner, we went to Hayahay. Our table had a wonderful view of the sea but we hardly enjoyed the view since we were all focused on Hayahay's delicious food. We loved their shrimp and bacon pizza which they served with onion slices, mushrooms and lots of cheese.  We also enjoyed their steamed fish.

We wanted to sample the food served by the rows of barbecue stalls along Rizal Avenue, but we had no more space on our tummies. I guess we have a good reason to go back to Dumaguete!

Whale shark interaction in Donsol

Travel dates: 24-25 February 2011

Budget: 

• Airfare Manila-Legaspi-Manila or bus to Legaspi and back
• Transfers: P1500/van per trip if hiring a van from the airport. Approximately P200 for a Legaspi-Donsol-Legaspi trip if taking public transportation  
• Overnight stay at Vitton Beach Resort: P2200 for a room for 4. P1800 for a room for 2
• Whale shark interaction: P3500 for the boat (maximum of 6) + P100/person; P200 for the use of a mask, snorkel and fins (we brought our own)
• Firefly tour: P1250 for the boat (maximum of 5) + P200/tricycle
• Meals: P100 to P300 per person per meal

Travel mode: Plane from Manila to Legaspi, land trip from Legaspi to Donsol

Donsol is an unassuming town 1.5 hours away from Legaspi. It gives you the classic Philippine scenery of  fields, cows, mountains and nipa huts. Tricycles are the only mode of public transportation. But as charming as it is, it is no match for its gem of a tourist attraction: swimming with the whale sharks!

Whale sharks are huge as they are the largest living fish specie -  the ones we encountered were at least as big as buses. But they really are so gentle and I can really believe the statement that humans can swim with them without risk, apart from unintentional blows from its large tail fin (which fortunately, didn't happen to any of us!) Swimming with them was such an awesome experience. It was so exciting that for our first few whale sharks encounters, I would always forget that I had a camera with me. Since the whale sharks swam slow, we were able to follow some for at least 10 minutes. We would only lose sight of them if they choose to swim deeper into the waters. We really got a high from swimming with the gentle giants that we never felt tired until we got back to the boat.

Another attraction in Donsol is their firefly watching tour. It's not as awesome as the whale shark interaction but it was interesting to go boating in the dark and to find trees lit up by a colony of fireflies. The tourism officer also gave a good introduction to fireflies and their mating habits.

Travel tips:

• Best time to visit is from February to May when the chances of swimming with whale sharks are high.
• There are a lot of choices for accommodations in Donsol. Some offer homestays for as low as P150 per head per night. Some resorts offer more luxuries. We chose to stay in Vitton Beach Resort as it was right next to the Butanding center. Vitton's rooms were clean but very basic - they have airconditioning, hot water, soap and towels. They only had small flat sheets for blankets. They also have a couple of restaurants, a bar and a pool. The manager, Annie, was also very easy to deal with. I would stay there again.   
• The Butanding center is open from 7:30 to 5:00 PM. Be there as early as possible. They only allow a maximum of 6 passengers per boat and only a maximum of 30 boats are allowed at the Butanding area at any given time. If you arrive late afternoon, you can still register and watch the training video so that you wouldn't have to do so the next morning.
• If you don't fill up the 6 slots, you can invite people to join your group. We chose not to and we thought it was a good decision since the Butanding Interaction Officer (BIO) was able to take good care of me. I'm not a strong swimmer so he held my hand the whole time and pulled me along.
• You don't need to be a strong swimmer to swim with the whale sharks. You don't even need to know how to swim! You can swim with a life vest and if you swim slow like me, the BIO would just pull you with him. You just need to be brave enough to literally jump into the dark waters of Donsol.
• Most resorts would charge a pick-up fee of P1500 from the Legaspi airports. That's the same rate that taxi drivers in the airport gave us. (Yes, there are now a lot of taxis in Legaspi.) Since we wanted to keep our costs low, we took a tricycle to the van terminal and took a van from there (all the tricycle drivers know where the van terminal is). The tricycle ride costs P50/tricycle. The vans charge P65/person but if you want more room, you can pay for the whole row. In our case, we paid P780 for the whole van. What's nice about doing the tricycle+van route is that there's a SaveMore at the van terminal where we had snacks and bought some groceries.
• There are 2 options for the firefly tour, one in Donsol and another in Ogod. People say that the tour in Ogod is better as there are more fireflies and the trees are lower.
• For our firefly tour, we just hailed a tricycle on the road and asked the driver to bring us to Ogod. He waited for us and charged us P250 (other tricycle drivers charged P200).
• There are no ATMs in Donsol. Bring cash.

More photos taken in Albay are here.